Sharky's Notebook

Available at your local automotive store. Spark Plug Non Fouler PN 42009 ($4.99)

You now need to drill out 1 of the non foulers using a 1/2" drill bit. When finished this is what it will look like.

Side by Side comparision of the orignal and now modified non foulers

o2 Sensor inserted in the modified non fouler

Second, unmodified non fouler now installed on modified non fouler

Original non fouler->Modified non fouler->o2 sensor

Fully installed

By moving the secondary o2 sensor away from the direct path of exhaust flow and limiting what exhaust gas can get to the o2 sensor the ecu believes that there is a functioning cat still in the system.

Source @ K-Series Forum

Alright, first off... BIG BIG BIG shout out to Jnaut as he's been an unbelievable help to me doing this swap as in also telling me what needs to be done. Another big thanks to Sk33ny for taking some of the pics needed for this write-up. And to Dori, Mo, Justin and Ku for being my third hand when I needed it. So with that said... here we go!

This is going to let you know what needs to be done to make this conversion possible. It's going to explain sensor differences, what you need, what's optional and show what I personally did because of the pics. The lists will just let you know what parts you need; they will be explained at the caption of the picture to avoid less confusion and up/down scrolling. So MAKE SURE you read the captions of the pics because that is where the information will be!

Since I didn't take enough pics on how to drop/lift a motor, I'm going to assume that you already know how. Along with removing the subframe IF you decide to drop it. I have found that you can LIFT the motor out which AVOIDS the hassle of the subframe. It doesn't look like you can but you CAN. Especially if you remove the radiator support and radiator... TRUST ME along with Jnaut. It's easily possible!

Subframe Removal link thanks to blueroadster:
DIY 2006 SI Turbo Related: Subframe & Oil Pan Removal/Installation (PIC Heavy)

Engine Removal link:
None yet but will be inserted here when there is one!

Requirements:
- K24 bottom end (duhhh)
- K24 headgasket, timing chain, timing chain cover
- 2002-2006 CRV Passenger side Engine mount bracket P/N: 11910-PPA-000

Options:
- 2002 - 2006 RSX-S oil pump, chain and baffle plate P/N: Oil Pump-15100-PRB-A01 Chain-13441-PCX-004 Baffle Plate-11221-PNC-000
- K20Z3 stock oil cooler
- Any internal upgrade that you wish to do

Background:
These pics will be from my swap which consists of a K24A2 (TSX) bottom and and K20Z3 head and external components. But this can be put to use with the K24A1, A3, A4 or A8. Hers's a thread to help familiarize yourself.Here is the best Information about K motors - K20A.org .:. The K Series Source . Honda / Acura K20a k24a Engine Forum.

The motor - K24A2: Yeah, I bought the complete long block. You only need the bottom end and it's components! So don't get confused with all the extra stuff you see attached to it! I have ALOT of stuff left over =/.

Down to what you NEED (other than headstuds)...sorry but I had to include my sexy headstuds in the pic =)

Oil pan off

Oil pumps: You can use the stock oil pump/balance shafts. But as you guys know, it takes a bit of power to spin those shafts/weights being submerged in that oil so alot of people delete it with the RSX-S oil pump, chain and baffle plate to free up some hidden HP. BUT if you like that smooth/quiet motor feel then keep the balance shafts. Deleting the balance shafts will add a teeny bit more "engine feel". It'll feel like having a mini-torque dampener or something. But I like it =). If you go with the type-S oil pump and are using a TSX or Accord block, you will need to modify the mounting surface of the pump to accomodate the lump in the lower plate. The CRV block you do NOT have to modify the pump. It's a flat surface. Here's a few shots.

Also, if you delete those balance shafts you'll have an open oil orifice in the main bearing cap #3 on the lower plate. YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE JET AND PLUG THAT HOLE OR YOU WILL HAVE VERY LOW OIL PRESSURE! Here's how! A wood screw and a 12mm honda bolt coated with RTV =)






Put your oil pan back on! You can use the steel one that comes with the K24 if you keep the balance shafts but if you use the type-S oil pump you're going to have to use your aluminum one. Now that the very bottom stuff is done, lets move up!

Oil cooler: The K24 does not come with an oil cooler. You can skip this step and not run with an oil cooler but I highly suggest swapping it over or running an external one. You'll need a 10mm allen key to remove the plug inside. Make sure you remember to put the O-ring in between the block and oil filter pedastal! You won't be a happy camper if you don't!
TSX

Civic Si

The transfer...
TSX




Civic Si



Now put that cooler/filter holder onto that TSX block! DON'T FORGET THE O-RING!

Now go put your head on along with the cams, timing chain, cover. Get it all torqued down! This is a VERY good time to do your valve adjustment. Since you'll most likely have 360º access to all the rockers you may as well do it now rather than struggling to with it in the car. But if your car was perfectly quiet before, then I guess you have nothing to worry about. Be sure to lube all the components with some 10w-40 or assembly lube too. Just to help the motor stay moist =X. I did both... I also had a brand new head so it was BONE dry.

Crank Pulley: You gotta use your K20 one! Notice the size difference between the TSX and K20. TSX at left and K20 at right. If you forget to use your k20 crank pulley you will DIE trying to put the belt on. Trust me, holding a non-worn out tensioner all the way open for a extended period of time is NOT fun. Especially when you realize that you put your K24 pulley on -_-.

Time for the sensors. You will be transfering all of your sensors and components that attach to the block. Use all of your old stuff. Everything fit the same except for these few sensors' clips. Here are the differences...

Crank Position Sensor - TSX: Left | Civic Si: Right

Knock Sensor - Civic Si: Left | TSX: Right (yes the sensor goes into a sealed hole. It's just a microphone for our ecu plain and simple.

Oil Pressure Sending Unit - Civic Si: Left(plastic connector) | TSX: Right(metal probe) (Make sure you put some teflon tape on the threads to guarantee a seal)



The CRV mount: The CRV mount is just a shorter version of the Civic Si one. It's to make up for that added height of the 2.4L block.



Now get it all back together!

Might as well change the clutch and flywheel while I'm at it right?! (No I'm not tightening the pressure plate bolts all the down with the air ratchet. I'm just getting them all snug. Everything was torqued according to spec.)

The lazy way of putting a tranny on!

Alright time to go back in. Sorry I didn't take that many pics so I'll just put the final few in.

Make sure all your fluids are filled, bolts tightened, electrical connectors connected and start it up! Have complete silence around you while it runs... listens for any abnormal rattles, clatters, whines, howls, grinding =X, etc. Also watch for a CEL. If you have one, turn the car off immediately and double check all of your connectors and make sure they're plugged in their right spots. Then reset the battery and go for another try. If it's still on it most likely means it's an internal problem which would really suck. Immediately turn the car off and find a buddy with a scanner to figure out the code. Hopefully it's nothing that will make you slam your head through a wall. BUT if you start it and no CEL.... you've just done a frankenstien swap! Congrats and have fun!

As for engine management, I'm running on the stock ecu for now. So I'm revving to 7800. Jnaut, has run with the reflash and reported that from 7900-8600 the car leaned out. But 7800 and below he was perfectly in the safe zone. Until, a stand alone comes out... I'll be sticking to the stock ecu.

Source @ 8thcivic.com

Thanks to Mad Monkey for giving me the "go ahead" to post this on my blog.

A PDF version of the Topic is available for registered users only.

Microsoft has been the news most frequently for its bid to purchase Yahoo for $47.5B. Now that the bid has been withdrawn, some of the company's other partnerships are able to break through the heavy "Yahoo fog".

Microsoft announced today that it reached an agreement to provide Sync technology to Hyundai and Kia vehicles. Although the financial details of the agreement weren't announced, the first vehicles to roll off the assembly featuring an infotainment system similar to Ford's Sync will be available in 2010.

Ford heavily marketed its Sync system and has seen the sales of Sync-capable vehicle surpass the 130,000 unit mark. The availability of Sync is seen as one of the big reasons why Ford's refreshed Focus has seen a huge uptick in sales despite the fact that the design of the vehicle has been universally panned.

As with Ford's Sync, the Hyundai/Kia vehicles will feature speech recognition along with the ability to control phones and multimedia devices via Bluetooth or via a USB cable. Hyundai’s system, however, will have the advantage of being based on Microsoft's next generation platform and will be software upgradeable.

"Microsoft is certainly raising their level of involvement and their competitiveness in the automotive industry," said Telematics Research Group analyst Phil Magney. "It makes it one of the top operating systems that automakers must consider in developing their ‘infotainment’ systems."

"We see demand manifest across all income levels, all age levels," added Consumer Electronics Association industry analysis director Steve Koenig. "It's really resonating with consumers' digital lifestyle. We're starting to see consumers beginning to demand it and expect it."

Hyundai's new Microsoft-developed infotainment system should come just in time for South Korean automaker's two upcoming models: the Genesis and the Genesis Coupe. The Genesis is aimed at Lexus buyers and offers comparable equipment levels for thousands less. The Genesis Coupe, on the other hand, is going straight after other RWD two-doors on the market like the Ford Mustang, Nissan 350Z, and Infiniti G35.

Source @ DailyTech

SYMPTOM
The 6-speed manual transmission grinds when shifting
into 3rd gear, pops out of 3rd gear, or is hard to shift
into 3rd gear.
NOTE: These symptoms can be intermittent and
sometimes more noticeable in colder climates.

PROBABLE CAUSE
The transmission has a faulty 3rd gear synchronizer or
3-4 shift sleeve.

CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the 3rd gear set.

VEHICLES AFFECTED
2003–07 Accord V6 with M/T: ALL
2008 Accord V6 with M/T 2-Door:
From VIN 1HGCS218.8A000001
thru 1HGCS218.8A003478
2006–07 Civic Si 2-Door: ALL
2008 Civic Si 2-Door:
From VIN 2HGFG215.8H700001
thru 2HGFG215.8H701973
2007 Civic Si 4-Door: ALL
2008 Civic Si 4-Door:
From VIN 2HGFA555.8H700001
thru 2HGFA555.8H702465

See attached file for more information.

Every once in a while, a car comes along with so much hype that not only does it capture the attention of car enthusiasts everywhere, it creates a frenzy among publications all over the world vying to be the first to drive it, test it and compare it with others. The Nissan GT-R is one such car. As usual, R&T was at the front of the line to drive, test and compare the U.S.-spec version of this very special car against its biggest rivals, the Chevrolet Corvette Z06 and Porsche 911 Turbo.

Regular readers of this publication no doubt remember seeing our first drive of the GT-R four months ago, when we evaluated a Japanese-spec version in Germany. There, we got a good idea of what the car was all about, but not the entire picture. We knew that the GT-R's performance would place it among the most elite 2+2s in the world...still, nothing prepared us for what was in store when Feature Editor Mike Monticello, R&T Specials Editor Andrew Bornhop and I took the first U.S.-spec GT-R along with the Corvette Z06 and 911 Turbo to the California countryside. We took on some of the trickiest mountain roads in the state and the challenging Buttonwillow Raceway (where former Nissan factory driver Steve Millen joined us). Here we discovered that not only did the GT-R measure up to the hype, it sliced it to pieces with a samurai sword.

Porsche 911 Turbo

Points: 380.7
Lap Times: 2:02.1

It's easy to see why people feel that there is no substitute for a Porsche after driving the 911 Turbo. This car seems to have it all, incredible performance, a high level of comfort, meticulous German engineering and the aura that comes from having a rich racing heritage. But it takes more than past laurels to win an R&T comparison test, and the 911 Turbo, which has won a share of them, found itself in the middle of a dogfight this time.

That Nissan engineers used the 911 Turbo as their benchmark is no secret. At every GT-R event we've attended, a Porsche 911 Turbo was always lurking in the background, presumably used by Nissan engineers as a target vehicle. They equaled the Porsche's 480-bhp 3.6-liter flat-6's output. This allows the 3710-lb. 911 Turbo to run to 60 mph in 3.4 seconds, good enough to match the Corvette and GT-R, but not enough to beat them. The race to the quarter-mile mark is virtually a dead heat, with both the 911 Turbo and Corvette getting the job done in 11.7 sec., and the GT-R coming home a hair-width behind.

"The 911 Turbo pulls like a proverbial freight train when on boost, but there is a slight bit of lag when compared with the GT-R's engine, best described as a gradual ramp-up power, as though the 911 has larger turbos than the GT-R," Bornhop said.

In the handling department, we came away somewhat disappointed with our silver Porsche. One would expect that with all-wheel drive, the 911 Turbo would gobble up sweepers and mid-speed corners, but it understeered significantly entering tight turns and oversteered through the faster stuff. Some of us felt that the Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tires might be a factor, while others pointed to the softly sprung suspension. Whatever the reason, the Porsche simply wasn't as sharp as the GT-R on winding mountain roads or at the racetrack.

"There's no denying that the 911 Turbo has a surprising lack of grip, despite awd. It predominantly understeered, seriously chewing up the front tires, and was quite tail-happy when trying to put the power down exiting corners," Monticello remarked.

The 911 Turbo did shine on the open highway. Its interior was easily the most luxurious of the three, with comfortable and supportive front seats and lots of leather. The Porsche ranked high in the category of "the car I would most like to drive across the country." On the negative side, there was excessive road noise at highway speed, and the small buttons for the radio/navigation/climate control made operation difficult while driving.

The 911 Turbo's price tag of $135,470 immediately puts it at a disadvantage in this test...the reality is that's the price one pays to drive, and be seen driving, Zuffenhausen's best. But when it comes to just the numbers, Japan's new super coupe has caught and surpassed the German thunder car, meaning that now, when you say Porsche, there is a substitute.

Chevrolet Corvette Z06

Points: 384.2
Lap Times: 2:02.2

In terms of best bang for the buck, the Chevrolet Corvette has long been the king of the hill. And with the high-performance Z06, it ruled the valleys, shores and flatlands as well. But has the time come for America's sports car to give up its throne?

No doubt, the Corvette's credentials are impressive: Producing 505 naturally aspirated bhp and 470 lb.-ft. of torque from its 7.0-liter V-8, the svelte Chevy packed the strongest punch of the group, while being the lightest on its feet, tipping the scales at a lean 3350 lb. It kept pace with the others to 60 mph, and then managed to set the fastest trap speed at the quarter-mile mark (123.7 mph), besting the 911 Turbo by 2.5 mph and the GT-R by 7.2. This just goes to show that although the Corvette couldn't get off the line as quickly as its awd competitors, once it got going, nothing here could touch it.

"I'll take a normally aspirated engine over a turbo any day, at least when it's this good. The Z06's engine has crazy power all the time, at any rpm, in any gear. And the sounds...come on, it's an American V-8, need I say more? It's the kind of power you can truly call 'neck-snapping,'" Monticello said.

The Corvette experienced a little more difficulty keeping pace with the others when the road started to bend. Despite the excellent grip provided by the fattest tires of the group — 275/35ZR-18s front and 325/30ZR-19s rear — and its state-of-the-art yaw-control system, the Z06's rear end danced around through low- and mid-speed corners. It did well to keep up with the Porsche at the racetrack, but the Vette had difficulty staying with the 911 Turbo and GT-R through sections of Highway 155 where the road is dusty and slick. But on a clean driving surface, the Corvette demonstrated why sports cars are traditionally rear-wheel drive, posting a neck-wrenching 0.99g around the skidpad and a 70.6-mph romp through the slalom.

"Anytime you put 505 bhp to the rear wheels, it presents a challenge. But GM has done a pretty good job here. With the traction/yaw control set to Competition Driving Mode, the Z06 allows more yaw than you might expect. Grip is good, but the car does like moving around a bit. It's more difficult to drive than the others, but very satisfying when done well," Bornhop said.

Despite lacking two rear seats, the Corvette proved an exceptional tourer. It exhibited an even ride, and the seats were comfortable though lacking in lateral support. The cockpit remains relatively quiet, with the engine being the loudest element, and that's a good thing.

We all agreed that the Corvette is the best-looking of the bunch. Its low, wide stance instantly implies that it means business. And when you consider its price tag of $79,595, the Corvette Z06 is still one of the best deals on the planet...only now, it may have company.

Nissan GT-R

Points: 386.6
Lap Times: 1:56.9

We knew coming into this test that Nissan's GT-R was good; we just didn't know how good. Our world-exclusive first test of the U.S.-spec GT-R marks a significant occasion because it's the first time anyone has driven the car with its newly revised suspension tuning, and the first time the GT-R's performance is being compared head-to-head with its rivals'.

Where the GT-R shined brightest was at the racetrack. You can see from its lap times that it handed both the Chevrolet Corvette and Porsche 911 Turbo their respective lunches, working its way around Buttonwillow's challenging Race No. 13 configuration about 5 sec. faster than the others. We were all impressed with Nissan's twin-turbo 3.8-liter V-6 that produces 480 bhp at 6400 rpm and 434 lb.-ft. of torque from 3200 to 5200 rpm, mated to a rear-mounted 6-speed twin-clutch gearbox. The IHI turbos, mounted to the exhaust manifolds for quick response, provide 11.8 psi of boost, helping the GT-R reach 60 mph in 3.4 sec., and get to the quarter mile in 11.8 — right there with the others despite its test weight of 3960 lb.

"The power from the GT-R's engine is phenomenal. Not because it has so much of it, but because it's delivered in such a smooth, naturally aspirated fashion. The smaller turbos of the GT-R spool up more quickly than the Porsche's, giving the effect of no lag. Its engine note, however, doesn't stir my sensibilities the way the Z06's and the 911 Turbo's do," Monticello observed.

The GT-R's handling was in a league by itself. The suspension felt more compliant than the Japan-spec model's, yet still provided unbelievable stability through all variety of corners. Just when you think you feel the rear end coming out, stay on the throttle and let the ATTESA E-TS awd system do its thing. It'll immediately transfer as much as 50 percent of the engine torque to the front wheels (the torque split for normal driving is 2/98), stabilizing the car without sacrificing speed. The Nissan's handling balance is so spectacular that it registered 1.01g on the skidpad and romped through the slalom at an impressive 73.4 mph, about 3 mph faster than the others (and faster than the Ferrari Enzo).

"The GT-R responds best when thrown into corners with gusto. Under braking with a bit of turn to the steering wheel, the GT-R's back end will come into play to help you tighten the corner line a bit, but never so much as to make the car unstable. Steering effort is light, and the awd system takes much of the drama out of exiting corners," Bornhop remarked.

The GT-R also performed well on the open road, though we gave the nod to the Porsche 911 Turbo in this department. That said, we could easily live with the GT-R on a daily basis. The ride is solid, it's the only one here with a conventional trunk, and the seats are comfortable. The Dunlop SP Sports get noisy at highway speed, but other than this and an occasionally clunky low-speed shift, the GT-R is a capable daily commuter.

"There's plenty of room for a big guy and a back seat that can be used by shorter folks on the occasional run to lunch. The ride is on the harsh side, even with the suspension setting switched to full comfort. The various screens of the monitor are neat, though some of the materials here could be better. But could I spend all day in the car? You bet," Monticello said.

As for the car's styling, we like it, although there are others who feel that it looks too robot-like. But the bottom line here has little to do with the car's looks and everything to do with how it performed. Simply put, the GT-R is the most potent automobile to ever come from Japan, and will surely have manufacturers in America and Europe rethinking their ways. If it weren't for the car's $69,850 asking price (an estimated $72,880 for our test car) — and the fact it wears a Nissan badge — the GT-R might well be considered the most exotic car on the planet.

Source @ RoadandTrack.com

Comparison Chart